Steel & Rye

Once again it was too hot to cook, and it happened that Barbara and were a stone’s throw from Steel & Rye, which we hadn’t been to in a long time. Steel & Rye is actually in Milton, but it literally overlooks Dorchester, being separated only by the Neponset River.

I started with this lovely yellowfin tuna tartare. The description doesn’t really do it justice (“cucumber, melon, chili vinaigrette”), but I hope the photo does. Note the pancetta, the paper-thin radish slices, the parsley. Obviously assembled by an artist — and delicious to boot!

Barbara started with five so-called “coal-roasted oysters,” served with scampi butter, lemon, and bread crumbs. She reports that those too were delicious, even if not as artistic as the tuna. I had to take her word for the deliciosity, as I don’t like oysters. She had already consumed two of them by time I remembered to take a picture:

After those oysters Barbara had lemon spaghetti with clams, broccolini, and garlic-scape pesto. She enjoyed it with one reservation, considering the roasted broccolini to be a combo of “burnt” and “undercooked“ — but I would just describe it as having an enticing contrast of doneness. (Not that I tried it; I remained objective by describing it without being tainted by actual evidence.)

Instead of an entree, I ordered two more appetizers:

  • an unusual Caesar salad made with celery and shaved asparagus instead of romaine lettuce (but still with parmesan and croutons) —it was good, but a little too heavy on the celery leaves
  • gloriously sticky crispy confit duck wings in Jamaican jerk sauce, which required the accompaniment of a finger bowl containing warm water and lemon, along with two wet naps

We also had a good (but somewhat overpriced) bottle of California carignan. Our server was attentive in all regards, including refilling water glasses.

We will return.

Categories: Dorchester/Boston, Food & Restaurants